Acrylic Nails

How to help a client after someone ruined their nails

How to recognize and recover from damage on the nail plate.

As much as we wish the care of our clients nails was solely in our hands, sometimes the sh@t just hits the fan. So you haven’t seen a client in a few months. Your schedule was too busy and they couldn’t get in or maybe they were out-of-town. But the dreaded thing happened, they saw another nail technician who ruined their nails. How in the world could a nail technician ruin someone’s nails by giving them a manicure you ask? Well I am glad you asked. Take a look at the picture
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here on the right. Tell me what you see. What color do you see in her nail that should not be there? Let’s start at the bottom and work our way to the tip. We see her healthy looking Lunula, the flesh-colored nail and then wham dark pinky red color followed by a peeling thinned out free edge. Someone filed the top of her nail plate with something other than a 240 grit buffer! That dark pink color is a thinned out section of her nail. The surface of the nail plate has been removed and we are super close to the nail bed. File a few more layers off and she will have a hole in her nail! Her nails feel vulnerable when you touch them, so let’s not touch that area at all.

Who knows how long this is going to take to grow out? If a nail grows 1/8″ every couple of weeks this is going to take about 4 months to grow out and become strong again. Here is a photo of the pinky on the right hand. You can see the color change in this nail plate as well.

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I would normally suggest having a thin layer of acrylic applied just over the damaged area and let it grow up and off. But she is an artist who works in too many solvents. The acrylic would never last. I don’t want to apply gel polish because I don’t want to take the chance of those paint solvents lifting that off her nail plate and her being tempted to pull it off causing more damage. So we are just going to have to baby these nails. Lots of protein to help make them harder and not bend so easily. Keep them polished and protected. Keep them short, because everything she bumps them into is going to make them split, crack and peel.

So new and old nail technicians alike, let’s learn a lesson from the clients unfortunate experience. Be careful to never apply too much pressure with the buffer block, never use an electric file on the natural nail and never file the top of the nail plate with a nail file. I don’t know for sure what the person that caused this damage used, but I do know it was something stronger than a 240 grit buffer.

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Fruit Acid May Benefit Your Skin But What Do They Do To Your Acrylic Nails

Fruit Acid May Benefit Your Skin

But What Do They Do To Your Acrylic Nails

You have heard terms like lactic acid, malic acid, alpha hydroxy acid and glycolic acid. There are many many skin care products on the market that contain fruit acids that benefit your skin.  They all have great exfoliating properties to help fine lines and wrinkles. But have you ever asked yourself what do they do your artificial nails? I don’t think that is even on people’s radar when they are applying anti aging products to their face. But it is a real struggle, not only in skin care products but in food you may handle. Lifted acrylic caused by fruit acid exposure

For demonstration purposes I am using a client of mine who wears acrylic nails. She never has a problem with lifting, unless it tomato canning or pepper freeing season. Fruit acids are a real thing, they are in foods we handle all the time. Most of the time our nails are protected because we don’t have our nails submerged in foods that contain these acids, or we are wearing gloves. But occasionally, we accidentally expose our nails and end up having a problem with lifting acrylic.

You should be able to tell just from looking at the color of the nail that lifting of the acrylic has occurred. To the untrained eye there doesn’t really look like there is lifting because it is not lifting at the base of the nail. And there is no visible air bubble, but trust me there is. There is staining in between the acrylic on the nail plate from the acids. This instance was caused by boiling hot peppers so she could freeze them. Fruit acids break down the bond of adhesion and the acrylic lifts off the nail plate. It is important to remove this lifting, file the stain off the nail plate and apply new acrylic to the nail. If you were to let this go, she would most likely get Pseudomonas in between the acrylic and the nail plate over the next week.

leslie-acrylis-fill-1So the next time you have a client that  does not normally have a problem with lifting, ask them if they have been boiling tomatoes or peppers! And advise them to wear gloves next time to protect their acrylic nails.

You may even have a client that only has a problem with the first two fingers on her dominant hand. This is most likely caused by some kind of cream she is applying to her face.

Oh, I almost forgot the biggest culprit of lifting acrylic nails at holiday and pie baking season. It’s butter! Yep, good old butter. People are kneading their pie dough and that greasy ingredient is penetrating into their nail plate at the free edge causing the nail to pull away from the acrylic.

Always be on the look out for the cause of the lifting acrylic so you can advise your clients how to prevent it in the future. It is always so much easier to fill nails that have problems than it is to do repairs all the time.

 

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Newest Nail Trend 2016 “Evanesce Nails”

Evanesce Nails
Evanesce Nails

Newest Nail Trend 2016 “Evanesce Nails”

 

Beside sounding seductive and beautiful, the word truly fits in the nail industry. It means to gradually fade away. And what better to fade away but the color on the nail plate.

The technique of Evanesce Nails is to start with full color on the pinky nail and gradually have the color fade away moving across the hand. It appears as if a lighter color is growing up the nail plate as you move across the fingers. By the time you reach the thumb it will all be the lighter color. And to top it off, she adds color to the back of the nail using additive powders. The back of the nail matches the front tip of the nail! How fun and creative is that!

Creator of this new naEvanesce Nailsil technique is a veteran in the nail industry, Lori Halloway. Some of you may know her as The Meticulous Manicurist, the name she goes by on her YouTube channel. Or her book, Shear Savvy Secrets and Strategies for successful salon apprenticeships.

Lori fell in love with colored acrylic this year to keep her nails looking beautiful while filming for her YouTube channel and servicing her clients. She likes to mix colors with glitters to get a custom color that matches her style
. But still wanted something a little more unique. So she created Evanesce Nails. Lori uses colored acrylic on her own nails to apply this technique but uses polish, gel polish, and glitters on her clients.

We hope you have a ball creating your masterpieces using this new technique. Be sure to tag The Meticulous Manicurist in your posts so we can see what you have created!

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